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Danika Gilbert from United States and Pasang Kidar Sherpa from Nepal have ascended a beautiful new route On the 6,125-meter in Rolwaling,.
Last year, while climbing adjacent Dolma Kang with Gilbert, Pasang Kidar, an IFMGA guide and the Managing Director of Khangri Trek, based in Kathmandu, spotted the unclimbed northwest ridge of Beding Go (often spelled Bedding Go). The only prior ascent of the mountain, which is a member of the Gaurishankar massif, was accomplished in 2015 by a multinational team climbing the south face.
Gilbert told ExplorersWeb, “The good thing is that the climb starts virtually at the door of Pasang’s home.”
With the help of a porter who transported their equipment to the 4,900-meter base camp, the climbers made their way from Beding village to the mountain’s base. They then made a single push, reaching the summit on October 13.
By sharing the climbing permit with a Japanese team, the two reduced the fee, which would have been too expensive for Gilbert. Clients and a few powerful sherpas who had secured ropes to a high camp at 5,100 meters made up the Japanese group. Pasang Kidar and Gilbert took the broken trail to 5,100m instead of the ropes. They then began their last offensive to go ahead of the Japanese.
The two traveled to a crest that divided Tibet and Nepal along a path across glaciated landscapes.
The climbers stated, “We arrived at the last 130m ridge traverse after 400m along this ridge and over multiple false summits.” “[There was] wild exposure on both sides: 700m back down to the Gaurishankar Khola Valley to the west and 1,350m down to the Rongshar Valley to the north.”
We arrived at the peak at 12:07 p.m., having left at 3:55 a.m. Compared to our expectations, it was significantly longer and more exposed,” Gilbert said.
Most of the difficult trail-breaking was done by Pasang. Then they encountered faceted snow and multiple false summits on the long, sharp summit ridge. This led them to carefully consider their options in order to reduce the significant risk of an avalanche.
Gilbert remarked, “There was nowhere to secure the route.” “We advanced roped up, prepared to leap to opposing sides of the ridge in case the snow gave way beneath us.”
They discovered some rope that belonged to the original summiters on the highest peak. On the way back, they largely went back the way they came. The line was given the name Friendship Ridge and given a Grade V, AI 3+, TD rating.
conceivable with customers
They told the Japanese team’s sherpas about the ridge back in high camp.
The climbers stated, “We advised them to use two sherpa guides per client because it was extremely exposed and there was no way to fix ropes properly.”
The next day, the Japanese team made an attempt, but they quickly withdrew because of the unstable snow conditions. Pasang and Gilbert, however, think the road might be completed with customers. Not any client, though.
“To determine whether it would be a feasible [commercial] route was actually one of the climb’s objectives,” they stated. “As there won’t be any fixed ropes from the high camp, we believe it is feasible with a 1:1 guide-client ratio, provided the [client] is a strong, experienced climber.”
The future of climbing in Nepal is bright with this trend. Experienced guides and knowledgeable clients have countless options on technical climbs on the nation’s 6,000-meter peaks, which extend beyond the fixed ropes on 8,000-ers.
“As a guide, I find it to be much more enjoyable, and it’s a more sustainable and pure way to do mountaineering in the Himalaya,” Gilbert added.
Pasang concurred. According to their description, the route is unquestionably more isolated and a little more difficult than Ama Dablam. They liken it to Peru’s Huandoy’s north face.
collaborative project
Pasang Kidar Sherpa, like Mingma G, is a member of the generation of Rolwaling climbers who pursue personal climbing goals in addition to their guiding duties. He was a member of the local team that achieved the first ascent of Langdung (6,326m) in 2017 under the leadership of Nima Tenji Sherpa.
Despite spending a lot of time in Nepal, Danika Gilbert works as a mountain guide and is located in Ridgway, Colorado. After meeting through climbing, the two teamed up to introduce Afghan women and blind climbers to hiking and climbing in Nepal.
When they accompanied a group of Afghan girls trekking in Langtang in 2017, the goodwill initiative got underway. The majority of these girls left Afghanistan after the Taliban took power and are currently refugees all over the world.
The climbers clarified, “We are working very hard to bring them from their foster countries because they have a lot of trouble getting travel visas.” “Fortunately, the Nepalese government has been supportive, and we were able to bring a group of them who are currently residing in Germany a few weeks ago.”
Together with Pasand, Gilbert, Mingma Cherri Sherpa, and an American team, the girls ascended Yalung Ri and another neighboring summit.
“They now consider Nepal to be their home, and mountain climbing transcends national boundaries,” Gilbert said. They can hide from their awful world and be completely content there. They are unable to return to their native nations and feel exiled in a new land. They are reduced to mountaineers in Nepal. Additionally, they have discovered that female sherpa climbers like Pasang Lamu Akita, Dawa Yangzum, and Maya Sherpa are excellent role models.
